Now that I am safe and sound in Jordan I will try to recount the past two days.
Leaving RDU was difficult, as I had to say "see you later-six weeks later" to Tristan. He's such a good sport about my adventures :) No distance is too great when you have internet access & skype, right? As I was going through security I very much expected to be "randomly checked"-no such luck. It went faster than usual, but as I was leaving the security area the staff screamed "everybody freeze-don't move" followed by staff members saying "area clear". Ultimately we allowed to move. I'm not sure what happened, but it was curious...oh Raleigh Durham airport...
The flight to JFK was uneventful, and I of course fell asleep. JFK was a bit more eventful. There I met the multitudes of small children I would be spending the next 16 hours with. The waiting area to board the plane was filled with women who each alone were "watching" over 3-5 children. I use the term watching loosely as they didn't pay much attention to their kids as they ran and screamed through the terminal. I suppose it isn't fair to cast judgment sans having my own kids, but it's more of an observation.
In the area was a group of high school or college students who were studying Arabic. I overheard two of the students arguing about the use of
habibi which means "my beloved". This was humorous to me, because this argument was overheard my another traveling couple who as well debated over the usage of the term. Earlier in June, at LeaderShape, this word was taught to me during some impromptu Arabic lessons in which the debate arouse! As I have understood it, and wikipedia (oh so official) confirms...it's a causal term of endearment. I wonder how many more times this argument will occur? :)
Prior to getting on the plane everyone was subject to an additional security check and we had to provide receipts for drinks if you wanted to bring them on the plane. After quickly finding my seat and settling in the stewardess approaches me and says "Ms. White, come with me". Shocked and worried I followed the woman to first class where she gave me a new ticket and promptly seated me. In awe of what had just happened, I tried to be uber polite and behave in case they had messed up and I really wasn't supposed to be there. Later I found out another passenger wanted to sit with her child and I was granted this surprise upgrade. It was remarkable; snacks and drinks were unending and I had a reclining seat with a down pillow and blanket.
In the past I've had some issues with Delta's policies (i.e. when I broke my arm in Maine/Boston), but with the upgrade we are on good terms. I was served soup, salad, appetizers, a main course, and a cheese and fruit tray all on a white table cloth-pretty posh. I felt very awkward eating such a fine meal on top of my seat tray. So from this fabulous meal came Tristan's first Arabic nickname...
I was served Grilled Chicken Ras El Hanout. This Moroccan dish is chicken stewed in yogurt and spices-not to mention was tre tasty. Ras El Hanout means "King of Spices". Due to the cunning use of spices in his cooking I found this to be appropriate-haha! Bobby Flay, look out...here comes trouble: Chef Tristan "Ras El Hanout" White!
After such a filling meal, I fell into a deep sleep...to which I was quasi-rudely awakened to stewardess saying "Oh good you're awake...omelet or cereal". I in fact was not awake, but was a "stowaway" of sorts. Another filling meal induced the final sleep coma of the flight to which I was rudely awakened from the loudspeakers. The public address system warned "NO ONE MAY LEAVE THEIR SEATS, INCLUDING THE CREW. WE ARE ENTERING INTO ISRAELI AIRSPACE. THERE ARE NO EXCEPTIONS"
This in no way was the worst way to wake up, but it surely was not pleasant. A quieter, less abrupt warning would have done just the trick. After this announcement I was very awake and began looking out the window for our first views of the Middle East.
Looking at my map and comparing to the view I was unable to figure out where we were flying through. With the tone of the announcement I expect to fly right over the highly coveted/contested West Bank with bombs bursting and such. (Yes, I realize this was a dumb thought...it wouldn't the the first) It was fairly serene from 10,000 or so feet in the air. The terrain was unlike anything I'd ever seen, brown bare mountains with distinguishable terraces and trees scattered sparsely. As well, I couldn't shake the thoughts of entering the setting of the Bible and so much history, it was a bit overwhelming.
We landed, entered the airport and queued for visas. Admittedly, I was a little stressed out about getting all the way to Jordan, then getting a visa, but it was too simple. They looked at the passport, I handed them money....stamp in the passport. Bags arrived safely, thankfully, and we met our drivers.
As we attempted to leave the airport with the drivers I suspect I witnessed either my first bribery incident or a traffic violation being paid in public (you can decide). The driver had left the van unattended as he helped with our bags. The airport traffic officer did not appreciate this, to which the driver responded by saying "no, no, no" handing him bill after bill. Very interesting...
As we drove to Amman, sans seat belts and hurriedly I might add, we were able to see the outskirts of town. Large homes with satellites overlooked the highway and tents of impoverished people living in the dried up river beds. We passed three notable sites (notable to me at least).
- A massive indoor water park called Waves-with a water crisis and living in the desert, where do they get all the H20?
- A "Biggly Wiggly": Those who are familiar with the grocery chain Piggly Wiggly can appreciate this. The sign in both Jordan and America are written in all lower case letters, which means by taking the American sign and change the direction of the "P"-presto chango- you then get "biggly wiggly" :) I was unaware that franchises of that sort were in the Middle East!
- Policemen standing on corners with machine guns. This shouldn't be that bizarre, but given my aversion to weapons it's interesting to see police standing in the middle of traffic circles "packing heat"
Friday in many Muslim countries is similar to how Sunday is for Christians in the US. Friday midday prayers are important and happened to be occurring as we arrived. This raised many questions for me about how strict the 5 prayer times were and who participated, and so on. I haven't learned enough yet to confidently disperse that information, but it's been fascinating to hear the imams calling prayers over the loudspeakers from the minarets.
I don't recognize the words that they are saying (I have read the English translations though) , but the language sounds so beautiful. I have been most pleasantly surprised at how much I like the
Salat (the daily prayers). The loudspeakers are in fact quite loud (imagine that!). For the most part, where ever you may be you can clearly hear them. Though the Islamic prayers and rituals don't have much personal meaning, the call has a more spiritual effect. I keep finding myself taking a moment out of whatever I am doing to breathe, take in the moment, and be grateful for all of my blessings (past, present & future).
I have a long day of venturing around the city tomorrow, so I'll have to cut this short tonight. More soon...
